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The following recipes were copied from NPR.org

Dumplings
Eggnog & Eggnog Cheesecake
Spaghetti Sauce & Sides

Pimento Cheese

 
 
Pimento ingredients

Wright Bryan, NPR

 NPR.org, January 16, 2007 · This recipe was passed along to my family in Augusta, Ga., in the early 1970s.

1 pound sharp cheddar cheese

1/2 pound Monterey Jack cheese

2 medium kosher dill pickles (the original version of the recipe called for Claussen's pickles, but I've found that most brands suffice)

2 or 3 cloves of garlic (three cloves yields a powerful garlic punch; adjust the amount to suit your taste)

1 4-ounce jar of pimentos (or pimientos, as they are also called), drained

Cut all ingredients except the pimentos into large chunks. (The pimentos are already chopped.) Place all ingredients in a food processor and pulse just long enough to roughly chop. You don't want to puree the ingredients, just make them pliable for the next step.

Put in large bowl and mix with about 3 good tablespoons of mayonnaise. (I use Duke's, a Southern brand based in Richmond, Va., that many pimento-cheese aficionados prefer.)

Refrigerate, but set out for 20 to 30 minutes before use.

 

The following recipe was copied off the NPR.org page 2/21/07

Pao Family Hot Pot

 
 
Table set up for hot pot
Enlarge
Maureen Pao, NPR
 
 

NPR.org, February 20, 2007 · The first group of ingredients is a rundown of the basics of a Pao family hot pot meal (a * denotes items that you may only find at an Asian supermarket or specialty store). My parents don't like lamb, so we never had it at home, but it is another traditional hot pot meat. Clams and other shellfish are also an option, although not with my parents. Chicken is used, but must be cooked thoroughly and care must be taken not to get raw chicken on eating utensils. It's too much of a headache, so my folks don't use it either.

Keep in mind, too, that if you leave some of the ingredients off, you may want to add more of the things you keep. These amounts should be used as guidelines; depending on how hearty your appetite, you may have leftovers.

Serves 4-6 healthy eaters

1 to 2 pounds beef eye round, sliced paper thin across the grain (brisket and flank steaks are other popular cuts; depending on how thin the meat is, you may want to stick it back in the freezer to make it easier to separate slices)

1 to 1 1/2 pounds large shrimp, shelled, deveined and slit on one side

2 pounds spinach, washed and roughly chopped or ripped

1 medium to large Napa cabbage, washed and roughly chopped

2 boxes firm tofu, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 pint carton of button mushrooms, cleaned and cut in half

2 to 3 ounces cellophane noodles (also known as glass noodles, bean thread noodles, mung bean noodles; buying them in small packages makes for easier separating), soaked in warm water and drained*

Water (cooking liquid)

For a More Elaborate Meal, Add Any of the Following Items:

Clams (cleaned)

Scallops

Fish, shrimp or cuttlefish balls (defrosted, if frozen)*

Imitation crab sticks (defrosted, if frozen)

Lamb (also sliced paper thin, across the grain)

Chicken (cut into 1/2-inch or so slices)

Leafy greens (baby bok choy, Chinese broccoli or pea shoots, roughly chopped or ripped)*

Mung bean sprouts (rinsed)*

Shiitake, enokitake or other mushrooms (cleaned, large caps should be cut in half)*

Different varieties of tofu (two favorites are "oily tofu" and "tofu skin," defrosted, if frozen, cut if needed into bite-size pieces)*

Different varieties of frozen small dumplings (partially defrosted)*

Chicken, beef, vegetable broth or specialty hot pot broths (available in packets)*

Suggested Ingredients for Dipping Sauce:

Soy sauce

Sesame oil

Sesame paste

White or rice vinegar

Shacha sauce (the Bull Head brand is widely considered the tastiest)*

Minced garlic, shallots or chili peppers

Chopped coriander

Setting the Table:

A round table works best. Place the hot pot in the center of the table; fill it with whatever cooking liquid you're using (don't forget there will be lots of food floating around, so don't overfill).

Depending on how many people are eating, you may want to prepare multiple plates of each ingredient so it's easier for people to reach. Those go on the table, too, family-style, as do all the various condiments for making a dipping sauce. You can plop the bottles down on the table, or present the liquids in cruets or bowls.

Each diner should have a bowl (for dipping sauce and food from the hot pot), a pair of chopsticks (or a fork) and a spoon. A communal ladle (or two) is nice to have around.

We don't eat steamed rice with our hot pot meals, but you can certainly offer that, if you like.

Preparing Dipping Sauce:

Some good combinations for dipping sauces include soy sauce, sesame oil and shacha sauce; soy sauce, sesame oil, sesame paste and coriander; soy sauce, rice vinegar, garlic and chilis. There is no right or wrong. One tip: Go easy on any one ingredient (especially the liquid ones — try starting out with just a couple of teaspoons) until you've had a chance to taste the mixture.

Cooking:

When you're just about ready to sit down, turn on the hot pot and bring liquid to a boil; then lower heat and keep the liquid at a gentle simmer. You may need to adjust the temperature during your meal or replenish the cooking liquid.

It's best to put any items that need longer cooking (semi-frozen dumplings, for example) in early to ensure thorough cooking. Also, it's nice to put any bean-curd products in early, as they absorb a lot of flavor during the cooking process.

Use common sense while cooking; if your shrimp is still translucent, it's not done. Generally, nothing (except the frozen dumplings) requires more than a few minutes of cooking. (The dumplings — which will float to the top when they're done — take 5-10 minutes, depending on size).

In our family, the cellophane noodles go in last. The liquid — ordinary water in our family's case — becomes a tasty, fragrant and very healthy soup. We also refill the pot one last time with liquid and dump in all the leftover food, for soup and noodles the next day.

 

West Virginia Brown Beans

West Virginia Pinto Beans

Serves 10-12

1 (16-ounce) package dried pinto beans

1 medium to large slug of salt fatback (about 3 inches long and 1 1/2 inch thick], or 1 to 2 meaty pork ribs

1 1/2 quarts water

Salt and pepper

Put beans and water in a cast-iron cooking pot on medium heat. Next, put fatback in a microwavable coffee cup and cover with water. Microwave on high for 30 seconds or so, then turn the fat over and do the same for another 30 seconds. Pour the fatback and broth into the cooking beans. Once the beans begin to lightly boil at medium heat, lower the temperature to low, cover and cook for about 2 hours. Every half hour or so, uncover beans and give them a stir, making sure they are simmering in enough cooking liquid. If beans appear dry, add a little more water. Once beans are tender, season with a little salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper before serving.

 

Country Grit Bread

Cornbread

Grit bread is similar to cornbread, but it's made with pure stone-ground grits, giving it a texture unlike any you've ever tasted. This bread is dense, moist and not at all sweet on the inside while golden and crusty on the outside. You can find stone-ground cornmeal in specialty and organic grocery stores.

Serves 8

1 cup plain white stone-ground cornmeal (not instant)

3/4 cup yellow self-rising cornbread mix

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/3 teaspoon baking soda

3 tablespoons sausage, bacon, country ham, or pork chop drippings (Crisco or half butter and half Crisco will work as substitutes)

1/4 cup plain white stone-ground grits

3/4 cup water

1 egg

1 cup buttermilk

Preheat oven to 475 degrees.

Sift white cornmeal, cornbread mix, sugar, salt and baking soda into a big mixing bowl. Add fat drippings to a cast-iron cornbread pan (or muffin or cornstick pan) and warm it on the stove. When drippings are melted, tilt pan so the sides and bottom are well greased. Then pour off and reserve two tablespoons of drippings.

Mix grits and water in a bowl and microwave on high for 3 minutes. Stop and stir and then microwave again on high for 3 minutes and set aside. The grits will be about half done, but that's OK. Whisk egg in a bowl. Then mix egg with buttermilk and add to the dry ingredients. Stir until the batter is well mixed but still a bit on the firm and dry side. Add the reserved pan drippings and grits. Mix all of the ingredients well with a large spoon. (If grits and water have cooled, reheat for 30 seconds before adding.) Your batter shouldn't be too dry or too wet, but somewhere in between.

Pour batter into pan and bake for 20 to 25 minutes. (Cornsticks take slightly less time.) Your grit bread is done when a nice, golden brown crust has formed. Now, all you need to do is get a big slab of butter and dig in!

Cooking Tip: Leftover grit bread makes mouthwatering fried cornbread. Just heat up a griddle or cast-iron pan and drop in a small bit of butter. Then fry up your leftover cornbread wedges until they are nice and golden brown.

 

Chow Chow Relish

Makes about 8 pints

2 cups chopped sweet red peppers

2 cups chopped green peppers

4 cups chopped cabbage

2 cups chopped sweet onions

2 hot peppers, chopped

5 cucumbers, chopped

4 cups chopped, cored green tomatoes

3 tablespoons pickling salt

4 tablespoons mustard seed

2 tablespoons celery seed

1 cup sugar

2 cups vinegar

Chop up vegetables into a medium dice. Sprinkle with pickling salt; cover and refrigerate overnight. Lightly rinse veggies and drain well.

Put the remaining ingredients in a large pot, and bring to a boil. Add the vegetable mixture and cook for about 10 minutes. Pack into sterilized canning jars, leaving about 1/2-inch headspace. Remove any air bubbles. Wipe jar rims and seal at once according to canning manufacturer's directions. If you don't have any canning materials handy, you can store relish in an airtight glass container in the refrigerator for up to a month.

 

 
 

Peach Puzzle

Peach Puzzle

NPR.org, March 19, 2007 · Recipe by Lois Schlademan
Stow, Ohio

This recipe (which won the grand prize in the Cook's Country lost recipe contest) has all the abracadabra of a magic trick as well as beautiful presentation and great taste. Lois says the name refers to the "puzzling" cooking method. Her recipe begins by placing a custard cup upside down in the center of a pie plate. Seven peaches (peeled but still whole) are arranged around the cup and then drizzled with a mixture of brown sugar, butter, and vanilla. A buttery biscuit dough is then domed over the peaches and the custard cup. As the peaches bake under the crust, a vacuum forms inside the custard cup and the juices in the pie plate are pulled up inside the cup. Once cooled, the pie plate is flipped over to reveal the peaches nestled into the flaky biscuit. So where's the butterscotch-like syrup? It's all in the cup!

As you might imagine, Lois's recipe is unique—in our research, we failed to come across a single recipe like it. Lois says that her mother made peach puzzle back in the 1940s or 1950s and that it has been a family favorite ever since.

How good does this recipe taste? Lois' description answers that question better than we could: "When you pour a spoonful of syrup over the warm peach and it soaks into the biscuit crust, you will think you've died and gone to heaven—where, when meeting my mom, she would be pleased that it was her recipe that made you come visit!"

Serves 7

Peaches and Syrup

7 medium peaches, peeled (see note)

3/4 cup packed light brown sugar

6 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon salt

Dough

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces and chilled

6 tablespoons milk

1. For the peaches and syrup: Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 400 degrees. Place a 6-ounce custard cup or ramekin upside down in the center of a 9-inch pie plate and arrange the peaches around the custard cup. Combine the brown sugar, water, butter, vanilla, and salt in a medium saucepan and stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves and the butter melts, about 5 minutes. Pour the syrup over the peaches.

2. For the dough: Pulse the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a food processor until blended. Add the butter and pulse until the flour mixture is pale yellow and resembles course cornmeal. Put the mixture into a medium bowl. (To make the dough by hand: Use the large holes on a box grater to grate frozen butter into the bowl with the flour mixture, then rub flour-coated pieces between your fingers until the flour mixture turns pale yellow and coarse.)

3. Using a rubber spatula, fold the milk into the flour mixture, pressing the mixture against the sides of the bowl to form the dough. Squeeze the dough together and flatten into a disk. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 9-inch circle. Lay the dough directly over the peaches and press and fit the dough so that it fits snuggly around peaches. (The dough will stretch as you fit it around the peaches, but do not attach the dough to the pie plate.) Bake until the top is golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer the pan to a rack and let cool for 30 minutes.

4. Place a large rimmed serving plate over the top of the pie plate and quickly invert the puzzle onto a plate. Cut into wedges around each peach and serve, pouring syrup over each portion.

Notes from the Test Kitchen

Since this dish is all about the peaches, save it for when fresh local peaches are in season. And it is important to choose peaches that are neither very ripe nor rock-hard — they should give a little when squeezed. Be sure to invert the pie plate quickly to avoid losing any of the syrup. Serve with vanilla ice cream or sweetened whipped cream.

Assembling Peach Puzzle

1. Place a custard cup or ramekin upside down in the center of a 9-inch pie plate. Arrange the peeled peaches around the cup.

2. Fit the dough snugly around the peaches without attaching the dough to the pie plate. Bake as directed. Once cooled, quickly invert the puzzle onto a rimmed serving plate.

 

Chocolate Sauerkraut Cake

'America's Best Lost Recipes'

This and other recipes will be included in a new book, America's Best Lost Recipes, to be published this fall.

NPR.org, March 19, 2007 · Recipe by Tracey Duble
Ardmore, Pa.

Popular as an April Fool's Day recipe in the 1960s, Chocolate Sauerkraut Cake actually makes a lot of sense since vinegar was often added to early chocolate cakes to make them moist and tender. Sauerkraut has the same effect, plus it adds a coconut-like texture that is very appealing. This cake didn't seem at all unusual to Tracey, who came from a German/Polish background.

"My mother used to make sauerkraut cake for us when we were kids," she says. "My brother and I loved it. It is a rich chocolate layer cake with sauerkraut as one of the main ingredients. The taste of the sauerkraut really adds to the depth of flavor. I didn't realize how strange it was until I took this cake into school one day when I was in sixth grade. Everyone loved it until I said that it had sauerkraut in it. People had thought it was coconut. To this day if I want to surprise someone, I will make sauerkraut cake. People adore it, and then give you a look of amazement when you tell them the secret ingredient!"

Serves 12

Cake

2 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup water

3 large eggs, room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 1/2 cups sauerkraut, rinsed and drained

1/2 cup chopped pecans

Frosting and Filling

2 cups semisweet chocolate chips, melted

2/3 cup mayonnaise

2/3 cup sweetened, shredded coconut

2/3 cup pecans, chopped

1. For the cake: Adjust two oven racks to the upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour three 9-inch cake pans. Whisk the flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk the water, eggs, and vanilla in a large measuring cup.

2. With an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat the butter and sugar together until fluffy, about 2 minutes, scraping down the bowl as necessary. Add the flour mixture and the water mixture alternately in two batches, beating after each addition until combined. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the sauerkraut and pecans. Divide the batter evenly among the prepared pans and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating and switching the pan positions halfway through baking. Cool the cakes in the pans for 10 minutes then, turn out onto a rack to cool completely, at least 30 minutes.

3. For the frosting and filling: Whisk the melted chocolate chips and mayonnaise in a medium bowl and reserve 2 cups. To the frosting remaining in the bowl, add 1/3 cup of the coconut and 1/3 cup of the chopped pecans (this is the filling).

4. Spread half the filling on one cake layer. Repeat with the second layer and the remaining filling. Top with the final layer and spread the top and sides of the cake with the reserved frosting. Press the remaining coconuts and pecans into the sides of the cake. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. (The cake can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

Notes from the Test Kitchen

Both the cake and the frosting in this dessert have unusual components—the sauerkraut in the cake, and the mayonnaise in the frosting. The sauerkraut adds moisture and brightness to the cake (much like carrots in a carrot cake). Mayonnaise, made from eggs and oil, replaces the butter in the frosting. We served this cake to the test kitchen and waited for a reaction. No one could identify the sauerkraut at all (most thought it was chopped coconut), and as for the frosting, tasters thought it was tangy and chocolaty at the same time.

 

Naked Ladies with Their Legs Crossed (Spiced Crullers)

 
Naked Ladies with Their Legs Crossed

America's Test Kitchen

 
 

NPR.org, March 19, 2007 · Recipe by Shirley Sieradzki
Mishawaka, Ind.

This recipe wins the prize for most creative title, but it was the taste of these spiced crullers (which disappeared as fast as we could make them) that really sold us. Although the exact origins of crullers is unclear, recipes similar to Shirley's can be found in late 19th-century cookbooks, when the advent of chemical leaveners meant that many doughnut recipes could be made with baking powder or baking soda rather than the traditional yeast. This recipe comes from Shirley's grandmother and Shirley speculates that her grandmother's German ancestry might have had something to do with her decision to add mashed potatoes to the dough. The dough is rolled like pie crust, cut into strips, and each strip is slashed in the middle. Each strip is then twisted to look like crossed legs.

Shirley's favorite memory associated with this recipe involves one of her five grandchildren. "When our granddaughter was in the fourth or fifth grade, her teacher asked her what she did that weekend. Can you picture the look on the teacher's face when my granddaughter said, 'We made naked ladies with their legs crossed'?" Eventually, all was explained, and Shirley treated her granddaughter's class to a platter of these tasty doughnuts.

Makes 24

1 russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

1 large egg

2 tablespoons milk

1 1/4 cups sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling out dough

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 quarts vegetable or peanut oil

1. Bring the potato and water to cover to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potato is tender, about 15 minutes. Drain the potato, then mash until smooth. Let cool completely, at least 30 minutes.

2. Transfer 1/2 cup mashed potato to a medium bowl (discard the remaining potato) and beat in the egg, milk, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and vanilla until combined. Whisk the flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg together in a large bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and add the potato mixture. Stir to form a moist and sticky dough.

3. On a heavily floured work surface, roll the dough into an 18 by 14-inch rectangle about 1/4-inch thick. Cut the dough into 1 1/2-inch wide strips, make a slit in each strip, and twist to shape the dough to resemble crossed legs. Transfer the crullers to a floured baking sheet and refrigerate until ready to fry. (The crullers may be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 24 hours.)

4. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat until the temperature reaches 350 degrees. Carefully lower 6 crullers into the hot oil and fry, maintaining a temperature between 325 and 350 degrees, until crisp and deep brown on both sides, about 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the crullers to a plate lined with paper towels and drain for 3 minutes. Toss the crullers in a bowl with the remaining sugar and transfer to a serving plate. Repeat with the remaining crullers, regulating the oil temperature as necessary. Serve.

Shaping the Ladies

1. Cut the 18- by 14-inch rectangle of dough in half lengthwise, then cut each half crosswise into 1 1/2-inch wide strips.

2. Cut each strip lengthwise three-quarters of the way to the top to make a pair of legs.

3. Twist the legs around each other twice to cross.

Notes from the Test Kitchen

Tasters commented on the crisp crust and soft, chewy interior of these crullers. That chew and flavor comes from just a little mashed potato. But don't be tempted to use leftover mashed potatoes you may have on hand. We did and soon discovered that the butter and dairy we had added to them made the crullers too sticky.

 

Wacky Cake

 
Wacky Cake

America's Test Kitchen

 
 

NPR.org, March 19, 2007 · During both world wars, butter, sugar, milk, and eggs were often in short supply, leading American women to devise a variety of "make-do" cakes. We found several sources suggesting that wacky cake was invented during the 1940s, but we couldn't understand how it earned its name until we found a recipe in The Time Reader's Book of Recipes, a collection of reader recipes compiled by the editors of Time magazine in 1949.

Mrs. Donald Adam of Detroit, submitted this strange recipe, which called for mixing the dry ingredients — flour, cocoa powder, sugar, salt, and baking soda — right in the baking pan. If that wasn't strange enough, three holes — two small and one large — were made in the dry mix. Into the large hole went melted vegetable shortening, while vanilla and vinegar were destined for the smaller holes. Cold water was poured over everything, then the whole mess was stirred and popped into the oven. How does this strange recipe work?

Without eggs, this cake depends on the last-minute reaction of vinegar and baking soda to lift the thick batter. The three holes ensure that the dry ingredients (including the baking soda) remain dry until the last possible second. The lift provided by the baking soda and vinegar reaction is fleeting, and the recipe's odd mixing method ensures that the batter gets into the oven quickly.

Serves 6 to 8

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup natural cocoa powder

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

5 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup water

Confectioners' sugar

1. Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8-inch square baking pan.

2. Whisk the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt in the prepared pan. Make 1 large and 2 small craters in the dry ingredients. Add the oil to the large crater and vinegar and vanilla separately to the remaining small craters. Pour the water into the pan and mix until just a few streaks of flour remain. Immediately put the pan in the oven.

3. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out with a few moist crumbs attached, about 30 minutes. Cool in the pan, then dust with confectioners' sugar. (The cake can be stored at room temperature for up to 3 days.)

Notes from the Test Kitchen

To simplify things, we replaced the melted shortening with vegetable oil, and to boost the chocolate flavor we added another tablespoon of cocoa powder. The cake was a bit sweet, so we cut back on the sugar, and, because several tasters complained about a slight "soapy" flavor, we also decreased the baking soda. On a whim, we decided to try this cake with more "timely" ingredients. We replaced the oil with melted butter and used milk instead of water. This cake was less chocolaty and more crumbly — the original was better. Be sure to use natural cocoa powder rather than Dutch-processed cocoa for this recipe. The two types of cocoa powder react differently in recipes with baking powder and baking soda and don't always produce similar results.

A Wacky Mixing Method

1. Using a spoon, make 1 large and 2 small craters in the dry mix.

2. Pour the vegetable oil into the large crater, then the vinegar and vanilla into the smaller craters. Pour the water over all the ingredients. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, mix the batter, taking care not to overmix; the batter should still contain a few streaks of flour.

 

Tennessee Stack Cake

 
Tennessee Stack Cake

America's Test Kitchen

 
 

NPR.org, March 19, 2007 · Recipe by Andrea Hall
Puyallup, Wash.

This eight-layer cake, an Appalachian specialty, is known by various names, including apple stack cake, pioneer stack cake, and washday stack cake. The last name refers to how the cookie-like layers were often baked on washday and then layered with apple butter and left to sit for a day or two before being served. As the cake sits, the cookie-like layers soak up moisture from the apple butter and soften, becoming tender and cake-like in the process.

Andrea's recipe certainly won us over, but so did the story that accompanied her entry. "I remember my grandmother — 'Mom-Mom'—saying that there was always stack cake on the dining room table when she was growing up. She was born in 1917 into a family of ten in Lone Mountain, Tennessee, a very beautiful rural area south of Cumberland Gap. Baking day was Saturday, and dried apple rings were brought down from the attic, where they were hung every fall, reserved mainly for use in this special cake. Once baked, everything was placed on the dining room table to cool, then covered with a clean tablecloth to keep the flies off until items were put away Sunday morning. Mom-Mom remembers how they loved to go downstairs in the morning and see the large hump under the cloth where the stack cake lay! The anticipation was heightened by the fact that the cake could not be eaten until after Sunday dinner, and all day the scent of spiced apples and baked sugar cookies lingered throughout the house."

Serves 10 to 12

Filling

3 (6-ounce) bags dried apples

1 cup packed light brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

Layers

6 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup buttermilk

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

16 tablespoons (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

2 cups granulated sugar

Confectioners' sugar for dusting

1. For the filling: Bring the apples and water to cover to a boil in a medium saucepan. Reduce the heat and simmer until the apples are completely softened, about 10 minutes. Drain the apples and let cool until just warm, about 15 minutes. Puree the apples in a food processor until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the brown sugar, cinnamon, cloves, and allspice. (The filling can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)

2. For the layers: Adjust two oven racks to the upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Coat 2 baking sheets with cooking spray. Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk the buttermilk, eggs, and vanilla in a large measuring cup.

3. With an electric mixer at medium-high speed, beat the butter and granulated sugar in a large bowl until fluffy, about 2 minutes, scraping down the bowl as necessary. Add the flour mixture and buttermilk mixture alternately in two batches, beating after each addition and scraping down the bowl as needed until combined. (The dough will be thick.)

4. Divide the dough into 8 equal portions. Working with 2 portions at a time, on a lightly floured surface, roll each out into a 10-inch circle about 1/4 inch thick. Using a 9-inch cake pan as a template, trim away the excess dough to form 2 perfectly round 9-inch disks. Transfer the disks to the prepared baking sheets and bake until golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating and switching the baking sheets halfway through the baking time. Transfer the disks to a rack and cool completely, at least 1 hour. Repeat with the remaining dough. (The layers can be wrapped tightly in plastic and stored at room temperature for up to 2 days.)

5. To assemble the cake: Place one layer on a serving plate and spread with 1 cup filling. Repeat 6 times. Top with the final layer, wrap tightly in plastic, and refrigerate until the layers soften, at least 24 hours or up to 2 days. Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve. (The fully assembled cake can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)

Notes from the Test Kitchen

Be sure to let the cake sit at least 24 hours, as the moisture from the filling transforms the texture of the cookie-like layers into a tender apple-flavored cake. This cake takes a while to create but each step is simple and the dough rounds that form each layer are sturdy and easy to handle. Using a cake pan as a template will make this part of the process foolproof and give you an evenly shaped cake.

 

 

Cold Asparagus Chowder

 
Asparagus Chowder
Enlarge
Kevin Weeks
 
 
 

Woody Ends and Shells

Chefs are notoriously frugal. In part, this is an effort to control food costs by minimizing waste — but it's not just a matter of money. Some things that you might consider waste actually contain a lot of flavor — such as shrimp shells and the woody ends of asparagus plants.

The lower portion of an asparagus stem is packed with fibers, strings that are difficult to chew and digest. When you trim or break these off, stuff them in a 1-gallon zippered freezer bag and freeze them.

If you love asparagus as much as I do, by the end of asparagus season, the bag will be crammed with stems, which you can use to make an asparagus-flavored stock. You can use the stock to make asparagus chowder, and I've used it to make a sauce for chicken.

Shrimp shells are another inedible with a lot of flavor. As with asparagus, whenever I peel raw shrimp, I freeze the shells and heads, if I can get them. When I have a gallon bag packed with shells I make stock by combining the shells with an onion, carrot, celery stalk and a bay leaf. Simmer these ingredients in 6 cups water for an hour, then strain and discard solids.

Freeze the stock in small zippered bags in 1-cup measures. They can be used any time seafood stock is needed (as in the Cajun shrimp chowder below).
 
 
 

This is a cold chowder, although you can certainly serve it warm. If serving cold, you'll need several hours of refrigeration time. The great thing about this chowder is that it uses an entire season's woody asparagus ends (see sidebar). If you haven't been saving your woody ends, substitute 1 1/2 pounds of fresh asparagus, but you'll still want to discard the solids after making the stock because you've cooked all the goodness out of the asparagus.

This is a perfect salute to the end of the season, and a nice beginning to the chilled vegetable soups of summer. If you wish, you can run the chowder through a blender and make it a bisque.

Makes 6 servings

1 1/2 pounds asparagus woody ends (or same amount asparagus)

1 small onion, peeled and quartered

2 medium (3-inch) potatoes, peeled and quartered

4 cups chicken stock

2 tablespoons butter

2 medium leeks, white part only, chopped, about 1 cup

1 pound asparagus spears without woody ends, cut into 1-inch pieces

Juice of 1/2 lemon

2 tablespoons minced fresh summer savory

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 cup cultured buttermilk

Salt to taste

Put woody ends, onion quarters and potatoes in a soup pot with chicken stock, and bring to a vigorous simmer. Cook for 30 minutes.

Strain and discard asparagus and onion solids, but keep the potatoes and mash thoroughly with a bit of the stock to loosen them up. Reserve potatoes.

Melt butter over medium heat, add leeks and saute until translucent.

Return soup base to stove over medium heat, add leeks and bring to simmer. Add cut-up asparagus and cook until just done, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add savory, pepper, buttermilk, mashed potato, lemon juice and salt to taste. Allow to cool, then refrigerate until chilled, about 4 hours.

Taste and adjust seasonings before serving.

 

 

Cajun Shrimp Chowder

 
Cajun Shrimp Chowder
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Kevin Weeks
 
 

I first had shrimp chowder in New Orleans in a little hole-in-the-wall a friend took me to. This recipe includes the Cajun trinity: onion, celery and bell pepper. I substitute leeks for the onions and use a red bell pepper instead of green because the sweetness of the ripe pepper complements the shrimp better.

Makes 4 servings

1 pound shrimp, peeled (reserve shells and heads, if you have them, for stock)

3 teaspoons Cajun seasoning (a mixture of spices available in the spice section of most grocery stores)

2 tablespoons butter

2 cups shrimp stock or bottled clam juice

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large leek, white part only, cut into half rounds (about 3/4 cup)

1 medium stalk celery, about 3/4 cup diced

1/2 red bell pepper, about 3/4 cup diced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 1/2 tablespoons flour

1 cup half and half

2 tablespoons tomato paste

Scallions, chopped (for garnish)

Toss shrimp with 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning in a small bowl.

Heat a 12-inch saute pan over medium heat. Add butter and swirl to melt. Add shrimp and cook for about 1 1/2 minutes, turn over and cook another minute. The shrimp should be opaque, but not quite cooked through. Remove from heat.

Bring shrimp stock or clam juice to a boil in a small saucepan, add shrimp shells (and heads if you have them), reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain out shrimp shells and heads, and discard.

Heat oil in a large soup pot over medium-low heat. Add leeks, celery and bell pepper, and sweat for five minutes. Add garlic and cook another minute. Stir in flour and cook, stirring frequently to prevent burning, for 3 minutes. Whisk in clam juice; be careful, it will thicken quickly.

Stir in half and half and tomato paste. Bring to a light simmer, add shrimp and simmer 1 more minute.

Serve garnished with chopped scallions

 

 

Potato Chowder

 
Potato Chowder
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Kevin Weeks
 
 

This is an old favorite with a history nearly as long as that of chowder itself. And although it makes a hearty winter dish, it is also a wonderful way of highlighting the deep, earthy flavors of fresh spring potatoes. Hit your farmers market and find those delightful little jewels, 3/4 to 1 1/4 inches in diameter. However you scrub them, you'll still taste the earth they were born in, and that's the way a potato should taste. There's a reason the French call them pommes de terre, or apples of the earth.

Makes 6 servings

6 strips bacon

1 medium onion, coarsely diced

3 cups chicken broth

1 pound baby potatoes, 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, cut into /2-inch dice

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon ground mustard

Additional salt and pepper to taste

In a large soup pot, cook bacon over medium-low heat until semi-crisp. Drain bacon, chop coarsely and reserve for garnish. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of grease.

Add diced onion and cook until it begins to brown. Increase heat to high, add a bit of chicken broth and deglaze the pot. Add remaining chicken broth and bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium, add potatoes and salt, and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes.

Remove 1 cup of potatoes and mash thoroughly with a bit of the stock to loosen them up, then stir back in along with the heavy cream and mustard, and return to a simmer.

Adjust seasonings and serve, garnished with chopped bacon.

Crispy Fried Rockfish Bites with Homemade Tartar Sauce

 
Crispy Fried Rockfish Bites with Homemade Tartar Sauce
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Kendra Bailey Morris
 
 

One of best ways to serve freshly caught rockfish is also one of the most simple. Immersed in tangy buttermilk and then lightly breaded and shallow fried, these tasty fish nuggets are crispy on the outside while moist and juicy on the inside. Many Bay locals like to fry their fish in a mixture of peanut oil and bacon grease (we keep our grease in a covered bowl next to the stove for easy access), which creates an extra-crispy coating and lends just a hint of smoke flavoring.

Makes 4 servings

Peanut oil, for shallow frying

1 tablespoon bacon grease, optional

1 cup yellow cornmeal

1 cup flour

Pinch of cayenne pepper, or to taste

Salt and pepper

1 cup buttermilk

1 1/2 pound rockfish filet, skinned and cut into 1 1/2-inch wide, 3-to-4-inch strips

Preheat a large fry pan, preferably cast iron, to medium-high. Add peanut oil and bacon grease up to 1 1/2 inches deep.

Mix together in a shallow dish cornmeal, flour, cayenne, salt and pepper. Pour buttermilk into another bowl. Add fish bites to buttermilk and let sit for about 15 minutes (or up to 2 hours in the fridge. Then coat fish in cornmeal mixture, shaking off any excess.

Once oil is hot (around 375 degrees), add fish, being careful not to crowd. Fry fish until golden, about 2 to 3 minutes per side, depending on the thickness of your filet. Remove fish to a wire rack to drain. Sprinkle with additional salt, if desired.

To keep fish warm, place in a 200-degree oven. Serve with tartar sauce, lemon wedges and hot sauce on the side.

Homemade Tartar Sauce

Makes 1 cup

1 cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons red onion, minced

1 tablespoon stone-ground mustard

2 tablespoons sweet pickles, minced (preferably bread and butter pickles)

1 teaspoon sweet pickle juice

Salt and pepper, to taste

Mix all together in a medium bowl. Cover and store in refrigerator until ready to use. Best made a day ahead. Keeps refrigerated up to 3 days.

 

Seared Rockfish Filets with Mustard Chive Cream Sauce

 
Seared Rockfish Filets with Mustard Chive Cream Sauce
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Kendra Bailey Morris
 
 

The simple preparation of this dish allows for the mild, buttery texture of the rockfish meat to truly shine. Seared in a hot pan, the crispy skin creates a lovely crunch that offsets the creamy richness of the accompanying sauce.

Makes 4 servings

For Sauce

1/3 cup minced shallots

1/4 cup dry, un-oaked white wine

1/4 cup champagne vinegar

1 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives and extra chives for garnish

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon softened butter

In a small saucepan, boil shallots, white wine and champagne vinegar on medium-high until most, but not all, the liquid has evaporated, about 4 to 5 minutes. Turn down heat to medium and whisk in heavy cream and mustard. Whisk constantly until mixture reduces to about 1 cup.

Strain sauce into another saucepan, pressing down well on solids. Discard solids and return saucepan to medium-low heat.

Add chives and season with salt and pepper. Turn heat down to low and whisk in butter. Remove sauce from heat and keep warm until ready to serve.

For Rockfish

4 medium-sized rockfish filets, skin on

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon peanut oil

Score the outside of the skin of each piece of rockfish two or three times, careful not to cut too deeply. Pat fish dry with a paper towel. Season both sides of fish with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Preheat a cast-iron skillet to medium-high. Add butter and peanut oil to skillet. Once pan is hot, place fish, skin-side down, in pan and sear until the skin is nice and crispy, about 3 to 4 minutes, depending on the thickness of your fish. Carefully turn fish over and continue to cook 2 to 3 minutes or until fish is done to your liking. Continue cooking fish all the way through in a 350-degree oven if your filets are extra thick.

Spoon about a 1/4 cup of sauce onto a large plate. Place rockfish filet on sauce, skin side up so it doesn't get soggy, and garnish with additional minced and whole chives.